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What makes a couture makeup look, by Dior’s Peter Philips
Couture makeup really is the best makeup, isn't it?
It’s couture week in Paris and while our attention might draw first to the frothy dresses and the blitz of hand embellishments on show, there’s another, equally beautiful matter that we need to pay time to – the exquisite makeup looks.
‘Makeup really defines and frames the vision of a collection,’ explains Peter Philips, creative and image director for Dior Makeup. And he’s right. For AW16 couture, his bespoke eyeliner graphics punctuated every model’s look, drawing together the clothes, the accessories, the Di-orchesta, and all the other elements of the show in one cohesive statement.
Here, Peter tells us what couture beauty means to him…
‘This beauty look really is haute couture as every model has her own personalised eyeliner shape.I did every girl’s makeup myself – I’ve done 46 different styles of eyeliner! Eyeliner is very classic and very Dior, but it can make a real statement and I thought there was something special about it being uniform but also customised.’
Below, Peter does Bella Hadid’s makeup before the AW16 couture show, image by Vincent Lappartient for Christian Dior Parfums
‘I had an idea that I would do the right eye for each girl and my assistants would copy for the left.Because after drawing, say, five girls’ eyes, your own eyes can start to go cross-eyed so I had to take breaks. I looked regularly at this little piece of paper [Peter shows us a grid of hundreds of different line shapes] to recharge my batteries – it was a marathon.’
‘Eyes are sisters, not twins, even when they’re on the same face.The point of eyeliner is to bring balance back. I used Dior’s Overcurl mascara on the top lashes and then played with the Diorshow eyeliner and the Art Pen when I wanted to create more of a dramatic flick.’
‘Couture can be a fantasy,but so can prêt-a-porter – it depends on the story behind the collection. It’s seldom that you get the chance to, in one morning, do almost 50 different types of eyeliner. I enjoyed that the process was very mathematical, not a romantic story this time.
Video: Couture Makeup Looks
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